Halloween is a celebration that originates from Celtic traditions, yet some of its customs have taken root in Southern Italy during the long Norman domination. What connects Halloween to Salento? Although this occasion with its eerie atmosphere stems from ancient Celtic traditions, not everyone is aware that in Salento and Southern Italy, similar rituals exist, influenced by the Norman period and ancient Christian traditions intertwined with pagan rites.
For the Celts, the night of October 31 marked the end of the year and the moment when Samhain, the Lord of Death and Winter, gathered the souls of the deceased, who briefly reunited with the living. To prevent evil spirits from entering the bodies of the living, villagers would extinguish the fires in their homes, only to relight them at nightfall to burn offerings and perform protective spells. For three days, the Celts wore animal skins to ward off unwanted spirits, a practice that influenced the modern tradition of costumes.
Similarly, the ancestors of Salento and Southern Italy engaged in rituals honoring the deceased from October 31 to November 2. In some areas of Southern Italy, gifts and sweets are still prepared for children, with stories that they were left by deceased relatives; in other places, tables are set for a dinner believed to be attended by the souls of loved ones. In various locations, bonfires made from broom branches are lit in public squares, and leftovers from dinners are left outside for the deceased.
The use of carved and illuminated pumpkins, a symbol of Halloween, also has Italian roots. But why is this tradition more closely associated with America today? The answer is simple: the United States is largely populated by descendants of Europeans, and the significant emigration from Southern Italy in past centuries carried many of these customs across the ocean. Traditions such as “trick or treat” are linked to Southern Italy and likely gained traction in America as immigrants, finding themselves in a Protestant society, felt the need to keep their ancient Catholic and pagan traditions alive.
Salento has a long-standing tradition of celebrations related to the dead that, in certain villages, bear a striking resemblance to Halloween rituals. In villages like Miggiano, Supersano, and Presicce, it was common to prepare banquets for the souls as a sign of hospitality. People would leave typical sweets, such as boiled wheat and “bones of the dead” cookies, outside their doors or on tables to welcome their deceased loved ones. Children were also given sweets as gifts.
Today, in some villages, like Zollino, the traditions for the Night of the Dead are still very much alive. Families prepare tables at home adorned with lit candles, food, and drinks to welcome the deceased. This practice not only honors the departed but also symbolizes the welcoming of their souls. During this time, a procession heads to the village cemetery, where candles are lit to illuminate the path for the souls.
In Martano, another vibrant tradition involves creating home altars in memory of the deceased, accompanied by moments of reflection and family meals featuring typical dishes such as boiled wheat and dried figs. The lights and decorative candles that adorn homes and streets evoke the modern illuminated pumpkins of Halloween.
In Specchia, one of the oldest and most picturesque villages in Salento, women still prepare pupurati, spiced cookies offered to children as a symbol of continuity between generations. In ancient times, bonfires were lit here to drive away evil spirits and protect the harvest, serving as a way to honor the deceased and maintain a connection to the spiritual world.
The Salento traditions related to the dead uniquely intertwine with the celebrations we now associate with Halloween. While Halloween has evolved differently elsewhere, in Salento, the celebrations on November 1st and 2nd continue to pass down rituals that connect the living with the deceased, in a night experienced as a moment of reflection, respect, and memory.
One of the most suitable places to host legends of witches and mysterious spirits in Salento is the area between Giuggianello, Giurdignano, and Minervino di Lecce, where ancient “natural monuments” endure, still living in collective memory. This territory, often compared to the famous Stonehenge for its dolmens, menhirs, and sacred stones, is rich in suggestive tales revolving around nymphs, old witches, and fairies known as “scazzamurieddhi.” The local countryside, with its invaluable heritage, has inspired countless fantastic stories and fairy tales passed down through generations.
For instance, the Massi della Vecchia were the home of a witch called “la striara,” who, at sunset, cast spells against those who dared to desecrate that sacred place. Anyone who dared to look her in the face was forced to jump endlessly, as an old nursery rhyme recounts: “Zzumpa pisara cu la camisa te notte…” (“Jump, witch, in your nightgown”), to which the victim responds, “se scappu de stu chiaccu nu nci essu chiui de notte” (if I escape this trouble, I won’t go out at night again).
In another version of the legend, aided by an ogre or her husband, the witch would turn into stone anyone who could not answer her questions. Many fell into her trap, lured by the promise of a hen that laid golden eggs, resulting in the area being scattered with rocks.
In this same region, tales speak of a challenge between young people and fairies. Once, farmers forbade their children from going among the large stones, saying that the “fairies,” beautiful but dangerous creatures, could appear there.
In Uggiano, stories of witches abound, who, during the sabbat, would gather around a “walnut tree by the windmill.” It is said that a local innkeeper, on a full moon night, left her husband alone to join them. When the man noticed the food and wine running low, knowing his wife’s secret, he went to the meeting place but mispronounced the formula and was lifted upside down into the air. His wife saved him by reciting a spell that made him fall, but since then, that tree has remained “secret” to avoid misfortune. It is said to be located near an ancient underground oil mill, but no one has ever been able to pinpoint its exact location.
In Soleto, on the other hand, it is said that the Guglia degli Orsini del Balzo, a fascinating tower adorned with monstrous figures, was built in a single night by Matteo Tafuri, a renowned philosopher and esotericist. For the feat, he allegedly summoned witches and spirits, but at dawn, some of them, surprised by the rooster’s crow, were petrified in the tower.
Few may know that in Tricase, the so-called Chiesa Nuova (or Church of the Devils) was said to be the work of the Devil, who erected it in a single night after making a pact with the so-called “Old Prince,” traditionally identified as Messer Jacopo Francesco Arborio Gattinara, a real historical figure. According to legend, the events unfolded as follows: around the end of the 17th century, Messer Jacopo decided to support the numerous farmers working and living in the countryside (who wanted to drive away the Malobre, or evil spirits) by building a new church outside Tricase, on the way to the sea, which was historically completed in 1685, with an octagonal shape, dedicated to the Madonna of Constantinople. To this end—through the enchanted “Book of Command”—he thought to summon the Devil himself, with the secret intent of mocking him. The challenge proposed by the nobleman of Tricase was accepted by the Devil, on the condition that, within the same church, as an insult and mockery to God, the Old Prince would then offer the consecrated host to a goat, a symbol of Satan. For this commitment, in addition, the Lord of Darkness would leave a chest filled with gold coins in the Chiesa Nuova. Once the pact was sealed and the church erected, the morning after, the Devil reminded the Old Prince of his promise, which he denied ever having made. Feeling mocked, the Devil vented his rage by opening a water ditch near the church (known to the locals as the Canale del Rio) and throwing the church bells into it, which still seem to resonate with their deep tolls underground during stormy days. And what about the chest with the gold coins? The Old Prince had the opportunity to find and open it, but inside, it seemed, were insignificant coins made of base metal or even stones.
Lastly, the Grotta delle Striare in Santa Cesarea Terme, located along the cliff between Porto di Castro and Porto Miggiano, is a cave with an eerie atmosphere. Legend has it that witches gathered there to dance and brew potions. Those who venture into the cave speak of pungent odors and rocks carved into the shape of female hands with elongated nails, resembling those of a witch, particularly highlighted at sunset with the sulfurous vapors appearing to emanate from enchanted cauldrons.
Thus, while Halloween has Celtic roots, it finds a surprising affinity in the customs of Salento and Southern Italy, demonstrating how beliefs about the dead and rites of passage are widespread and have endured, in various forms, for millennia. This tradition continues to thrive in these lands, remaining apart from commercialization and staying true to a culture that celebrates this realm with respect and reverence.