The Bagnarole: Witnesses of the Belle Époque in Italy and Salento
The Belle Époque in Italy was a period of prosperity and innovation, spanning from the late 19th century until the outbreak of the First World War in 1914. Characterized by social, economic, and cultural changes, this period coincided with industrial development, technological progress, and artistic renewal. Italy saw an acceleration of industrialization, an expansion of railway infrastructures, and a growth of cities as economic and innovation centers. Technological advancements such as electricity, the telephone, and the automobile transformed the country, while the growth of the urban bourgeoisie and middle class led to improvements in living conditions. Culturally, the Liberty artistic movement influenced architecture and design, while literature, music, and theater flourished. Italian cities became important tourist destinations for the European elite, contributing to the development of tourism.
In particular, seaside tourism began to take hold, transforming the coasts into leisure spots for the bourgeoisie and aristocracy.
It was in this context that the “bagnarole” were born, iconic structures of this new era of leisure and well-being.
The Bagnarole: A Dive into the Past of the Belle Époque
The "bagnarole," mostly wooden mobile cabins mounted on wheels, were used to allow bathers to change and immerse themselves in the sea waters away from prying eyes. These structures, pulled by horses to the shore or even halfway into the water, offered discreet shelter in line with the decorum norms of the time, which required that women could enter and exit the water without being seen.
Born in the United Kingdom at the end of the 18th century, the "bagnarole" quickly spread throughout Europe during the Belle Époque, also becoming widely popular in Italy, especially in seaside resorts frequented by nobility and wealthy bourgeoisie seeking relaxation and social life.
Bagnarole in Salento: The Elegance of Santa Maria di Leuca
The jewel of summer vacations in Salento at that time was Santa Maria di Leuca.
The fashion for summer stays in coastal areas, which pervaded all social classes, led to the development of different types of "bagnarole":
- Bagnarola a conca: This was the type for the common people, essentially a natural hollow between rocks by the sea used by those who, not knowing how to swim, were looking for a safe place. Besides this natural "hole," there were also artificial hollows, indicating attempts at larger excavations.
- Uncovered bagnarola : A kind of bathtub carved into the cliff, generally quadrangular in shape. Almost all had a ladder to descend into the water, which entered through two openings and reached a very low level, so that both children and adults who could not swim could bathe. Originally, these "bagnarole" were reserved, so it was difficult to access them without permission. Each had the name of its owner, who belonged to a middle social level.
Wooden bagnarola: Dug near the shore like the uncovered "bagnarola," with a quadrangular shape, sea access openings, and stone ladders, it served as the base for a wooden covering. Practically, the lower part, that is, the base, had water; then the wooden floor with ladders to descend into the water, followed by all-wooden side panels that closed the structure. The function of the wooden "bagnarola" was to create a private, secluded environment sheltered from the sun. These "bagnarole" no longer exist today; they were active until the 1960s. These "bagnarole" were usually reserved for upper bourgeoisie families. The structure would be set up at the beginning of the summer season and removed with the first autumn storms in early October.- Stone bagnarole: The fundamental structure was the same, a section of the cliff carved into a quadrangular shape with two openings to the sea. Covered by a stone construction, it was accessed through a side door leading to a landing from which one could descend into the water via a stone ladder. The structure’s purpose was to offer the possibility of undressing and having a completely private environment. Therefore, a cabin that guaranteed a covered bath without being seen and maintaining the fair skin tone, as was the fashion of the time. These generally had a circular, hexagonal, or even dodecagonal shape. Located right by the sea, almost always in front of the villa to which they belonged. These were also a sign of nobility. This is because, starting from the late 1800s, numerous villas in Liberty and Moorish styles began to be built in Santa Maria di Leuca, in line with the era’s standards, as a representation of the growing power of the upper bourgeoisie and nobility. The villa owners could afford the luxury of reserving a piece of the coast and building their noble cabin in the style and color of their villa. It was a sign of "ownership" and "identity."
Today, only three stone "bagnarole" remain: two large ones, those of Villa Meridiana and Villa Fuortes, and a small one built on unexcavated rock near the pier (the former English dock).
Other examples of "bagnarole" in the Salento area can be found in Santa Caterina (a marina of Nardò) and Marina Serra (a marina of Tricase).
"The Bathing Room" in Santa Caterina di Nardò is accessible from two side openings to the room, one of which must have been the main entrance because the door hinges that closed the entrance are still visible; the other is very rugged and difficult to reach. But the most suggestive entrance is the semi-submerged hole that allows access from the sea. One holds their breath, takes two strokes, and is transported from a crowded beach to a place suspended out of time.
In Marina Serra, we find a "bagnarola a conca," known as the "Grotta dell’amore or degli innamorati" (Cave of Love or Lovers), and the "Grotta Spinchialuru," where near the opening, a cavity was created for undisturbed bathing.
Bagnarole in the Rest of Europe: An International Phenomenon
Beyond Italy, the "bagnarole" also became a symbol of the era in other European locations. In the United Kingdom, for example, the "bagnarole" were ubiquitous along the coasts of Scarborough, Brighton, and Whitby. In France, they were
found in Deauville and Trouville on the Normandy coast, where they were used by French aristocrats and the Parisian bourgeoisie. In Belgian seaside resorts like Ostend, along the Baltic Sea coast in Germany, and on the elegant beaches of Scheveningen in the Netherlands, "bagnarole" became an integral part of the landscape.
Each country adapted them to its style and needs, but they all shared the same purpose: to allow discreet sea bathing while respecting the era’s strict moral standards.
The Bagnarole Today: A Historical and Cultural Rediscovery
Over time, the "bagnarole" lost their original function and were slowly abandoned or destroyed. However, in recent years, there has been a renewed interest in these iconic structures, which represent a window into the past and the elegance of the Belle Époque.
In some places in Europe, such as the British coast or the beaches of Deauville, some original "bagnarole" have been restored and preserved as tourist attractions and historical testimonies. In Italy, particularly, the recovery of "bagnarole" has been more sporadic, but there are examples of faithful reconstructions in places like Santa Margherita Ligure or in museums related to sea culture.
In Santa Maria di Leuca, although many original "bagnarole" have been lost, interest in this historical heritage remains alive. Some restoration and recovery projects have been initiated to preserve the memory of these fascinating cabins. In 2015, the "bagnarola" of Villa La Meridiana was severely damaged by a violent storm, creating a breach in one of the walls, which was promptly repaired. The rediscovery of the "bagnarole" is not just a way to enhance an architectural element, but also to relive and tell a story of elegance, traditions, and love for the sea.
The "bagnarole" represent much more than simple mobile structures: they are witnesses of an era when leisure, well-being, and elegance were fundamental values. Their rediscovery and enhancement offer a fascinating journey back in time, allowing us to relive the atmosphere of the Belle Époque and appreciate the history of Europe's seaside resorts, including the enchanting ones of Salento.
As interest in the "bagnarole" continues to grow, it becomes increasingly evident that their charm is not only tied to the past but also to the desire to reclaim a refined lifestyle linked to the pleasure of small things. Who knows, maybe one day we will see them return to our beaches as a symbol of a time that still fascinates and inspires.
The best routes in Salento: trekking, walking, cycling, motorbike or other First itinerary: Otranto - Santa Maria di Leuca coast road
The recent success of Salento as a tourist destination is mainly due to the splendor of its coast and the beauty of the capital Lecce, but there is much more to discover: archaeological, naturalistic, landscape and food and wine treasures are widespread throughout the Salento peninsula. A great way to discover them all is to pack your backpack and set off on an adventure, along itineraries, to be covered on foot, by bike, by motorbike or by car, which are a journey in stages between the pleasures of nature, food, culture and local history, let's see some of them in this and in the next posts on our blog.
We begin our journey by car or motorbike, on the magnificent coast road Otranto - Santa Maria di Leuca, undoubtedly one of the most fascinating tours of Salento, as well as one of the most beautiful panoramic roads in Italy. While skirting the Adriatic, the jewels of the Salento coast follow one after the other: on one side the cliffs overlooking the sea, the ancient defense towers, the caves and inlets, on the other side the centuries-old olive trees, the typical dry stone walls, many small town halls rich in history and artistic beauties, with their bars overlooking the historic centers, where you can stop to cool off with a pasticciotto and an ice coffee.
It starts from Otranto, after visiting the city center and walking on the ramparts, continue towards the south and entering the vegetation you can admire an unusual sight: an emerald green lake in a hollow of the intense red soil, surrounded by the green of the marsh vegetation, the result of a disused bauxite quarry where nature has magically created a new ecosystem. A few kilometers and another spectacle awaits us, the Punta Palascia Lighthouse, the easternmost place in Italy, from which you can admire a breathtaking panorama. Continuing to drive always keeping the sea on the left, we continue to admire the ever new views that the cliff and the vegetation create at every turn. A few more kilometers and we arrive in Porto Badisco, where we can admire the bay (one of Enea's possible first landings in Italy) and, if the season permits, indulge in an unmissable lunch based on the freshest sea urchins. After this tasty lunch break we leave again, we cross the pretty Santa Cesarea Terme, which, as the name suggests, is also a renowned spa. Immediately behind Santa Cesarea, we find the beauty of Porto Miggiano, a rocky cove with a sandy bottom, located in an inlet overlooking the sea, protected by an ancient watchtower, it is one of the most spectacular beaches of the Puglia, sheltered from the winds; the natural play of lights, colors and the turquoise sea make it the ideal place for snorkeling. We still follow the road and we find the suggestive Zinzulusa cave, created in prehistoric times by marine erosion, is a spectacle of stalactites and stalagmites that are reflected in the turquoise water inside a majestic cavity. We continue through Castro and from here we reach the marina of Marittima, where there is another beautiful inlet, that of Acquaviva, so called because of the cold water springs that flow from the rock. Immediately after there is the marina of Andrano, with the unmissable seaside resorts, such as the Green Grotto, after that there is the splendid Tricase Porto, one of the most evocative and elegant holiday resorts of the entire eastern coast of Puglia. Here we can choose whether to continue along the sea or to allow ourselves a detour towards the interior of the territory, where there are many municipalities that are certainly worth a visit, such as Specchia, surrounded by centuries-old olive trees, and recently inserted among the most beautiful villages in Italy. Among pretty alleys and stairways stand out the sixteenth-century Risolo palace and the fifteenth-century cathedral in Piazza del Popolo; not far away the Baronial Palace, the Byzantine Church of Santa Eufemia and that of the Black Franciscans, adorned with valuable frescoes. It is also worth giving yourself a visit to the ancient underground oil mills of the town, restored and open to the public, where you can often and willingly also make deserving tastings of local products.
If, on the other hand, we have chosen to continue along the coast, the last kilometers of the coastal road start from Marina Serra, to the end of the earth, in the middle of the Ciolo bridge, which dominates one of the most loved and photographed inlets of the entire Salento coast.
The time for a last look at the enchanting coast of Salento and we arrived in Santa Maria di Leuca: in front of us all that remains is the blue of the sea.
We visit the Sanctuary on the promontory, the very high lighthouse, the aqueduct waterfall and the eclectic style villas, built by local nobles in a competition of luxury and eccentricity. Time to have dinner and we can enjoy the night on the bustling promenade.