The Legendary Origins of Olive Trees in Puglia
Puglia, with its vast territory, is home to the most significant heritage of olive trees in Italy, with over 350,000 hectares dedicated to the cultivation of this precious tree, representing 25% of the region’s useful agricultural surface. In the heart of this extension, the Lecce Salento shines with approximately 84,000 hectares of olive groves, which contain approximately ten million plants, of which 30% date back to centuries-old eras.
This olive richness has been recognized by UNESCO, which declared the olive trees of Salento and Puglia “heritage of humanity”, a living testimony to the millenary history linked to the land. It is said that it was the Greeks who introduced this imposing plant to the region, linking its fate to mythological and sacred legends. The olive tree, sacred to the goddess Athena, according to legend, guaranteed Athens victory in a divine challenge, thus establishing its importance in people’s culture and life.
Today, olive trees adorn the coats of arms of numerous Salento municipalities, as a symbol of their identity and history. Otranto, with its famous “Torre del serpe”, preserves the image of the olive tree in its banner, perhaps to remember ancient legends or its importance in past maritime trade.
But the olive tree is not only a symbol, it is also the “green gold” that gives its precious olives, through which a precious and refined oil is produced. The tradition of oil production in Salento has its roots in history, with evidence dating back to 1300 BC.
The ancient Messapi can be considered among the first to introduce the cultivation of olive trees in Puglia, leaving a thousand-year legacy that is still reflected today in the ancient olive tree of Borgagne, dating back over 3000 years ago, and in the tradition of underground oil mills, true and its own jewels of industrial archaeology.
The “trappeto” and the workers
Most of the oil mills are dug into the rock: the oil trade, starting from the contacts that the populations of Salento had with the Byzantines in the 9th century, had almost completely replaced that of wheat, and therefore the “trappeti” were built precisely on the ruins of the granaries, which dated back to the “Messapian” age.
The environment of these mills gave the possibility of better conservation of the product and hid the processing phases and the “crew” from the view of enemies, as the group of workers in charge of the various processing phases, also called “trappitari”, were called. and subjected to the supervision of the “Nachiro”.
Throughout the period from November to the following May, the “trappitari” lived inside the oil mill, moving only during the holidays.
Inside the “trappeto” there were also animals, with their stables. Other areas of the “trappeto” were those that contained the “sciave”, in which the olives were stored after harvesting and before pressing.
The wheel was turned with the help of a blindfolded mule and the crushed olives were finally pressed. Between the two operations the product was left to rest in the “fisculi”. If we refer to the legends surrounding the “trappeti”, we see that in addition to men and animals, in these places there were also the “aurochs” of the elves which the legend describes as annoying and mischievous.
The Recovery of the Underground Oil Mills of Salento: A Rediscovery of History and Tradition
An oil mill dating back to 1600 can be visited in Gallipoli. This is the one that is housed under Palazzo Granafei, right in the historic center of the Salento town.
Presicce, another locality in the Lower Salento, in the period from the 18th to the 19th century was known to all as the “underground city”, precisely due to the presence of large numbers of underground oil mills. There is talk of 30 oil mills, all hidden beneath the main square of Presicce, in which the “lampante” oil was produced, which was subsequently exported to various European countries, but also served for local lighting. However, Presicce is a unique case in Salento and its characteristic is perhaps due to the presence of various surface aquifers in the area.
Other Salento centers with underground oil mills are Morciano di Leuca and Sternatia. In the first location there were around 20 oil mills, while in Sternatia there were 19, only one of which can be visited today. An underground oil mill currently being recovered is that of Noha, a hamlet of the municipality of Galatina and also in Vernole there is an oil mill from the 1500s, the Frantoio Caffa, which was renovated at the end of the last century after having “worked” until the early years of the ‘900. Among the other underground oil mills that can be visited we also find that of Specchia and that of Calimera.
Investing in the Heritage of Salento: A Unique Opportunity
The oil mills were not only attached to the ancient farms, but were widespread in urban centers.
Recently many of these oil mills have been recovered and renovated, and some have been made accessible to the public, and in others very suggestive structures have been created, from places for food and wine tasting to real spas.
Most of the oil mills were of underground origin, but a small part were above ground.
This last typology has allowed it to be recovered more easily by current architecture, and to become an integral part of the present, and to be used as real homes. These are buildings made of tuff stone, with typical star vaults, perfectly incorporated into the current town.
An excellent example is represented by the property that we offer for sale in Ruffano, a small but charming town in the lower Salento: https://www.immobilinelsalento.com/immobile/antico-frantoio-a-ruggiano/
Conclusion
The olive trees and underground oil mills of Salento are witnesses of a glorious past and a thousand-year-old tradition that continues to live on through the centuries. Through their restoration and valorization, these ancient places continue to inspire and fascinate visitors from all over the world, offering them the opportunity to discover the unique charm of Salento and its extraordinary history.