Carnival is one of the most heartfelt celebrations in Salento, a celebration rich in history, traditions and symbolic characters that tell the story of the deep bond between popular culture and territory. From allegorical parades to rites of passage linked to Lent, the Salento Carnival is a mix of joy, satire and tradition, with unique masks. But not only that: this celebration is also intertwined with the architecture and landscape of Salento, creating a fascinating combination of baroque theatricality and the soul of the local community.

 

The Origins of the Salento Carnival

The roots of the Carnival in Salento are rooted in ancient pagan celebrations linked to the cycles of nature and fertility. During the Roman era, the Saturnalia granted citizens days of celebration and subversion of social rules, a tradition that, with the advent of Christianity, was transformed into Carnival, a period of abundance before the Lenten penance.

Over time, Carnival has taken on unique nuances in the Salento area, developing iconic and ritual characters that still survive today in the popular festivals of numerous villages and cities.

 

The Typical Masks of the Salento Carnival

The Purgianella: The Mask of Castrignano del Capo

The Purgianella is the mask, daughter of the classic character of Pulcinella, that represents the Carnival of Castrignano del Capo (LE), as well as the historical identity of the local inhabitants.

He wears long trousers and a large white shirt tight at the waist to hold confetti underneath, once replaced by bran, a symbol of fertility and abundance. Of the same semiotic value are the lemons that the purgianelli jealously carry with them.

The true characteristic of the mask is its enchanting cone-shaped headdress, made with reeds and decorated with plumes and hundreds of colored paper ribbons, creating a colorful mane in the wind that recalls the wingspan of peacocks, a typical courtship gesture. At its end, the headdress has three lucky pumi, another reminder of love.

The outfit is completed by shawls on the shoulders, of different patterns but always very well-groomed, and a black mask on the face. Sometimes they have bandanas around their necks or handkerchiefs at their waists.

The Purgianella goes “hunting” for sweet girls, attracting them with citrus and showering them with confetti or, in the past, bran. More than courted, the girls were frightened, hence the local saying: «ci vide lu Purgianella cu sse chiusi e cu sse ’nserra» (“Whoever sees the Purgianella closes himself and barricades himself inside”).

 

Lu Paolinu: La Morte de lu Paulinu

In Martignano and in Grecìa Salentina, Carnival ends with “La Morte de lu Paulinu” (The Death of Paolino), a rite that represents the passage from revelry to Lenten penance. Lu Paulinu “Cazzasassi” (Pauline Stonecutter) is the puppet that personifies Carnival itself, celebrated with a theatrical funeral procession in which local actors stage a tragicomic comedy. The procession passes through the streets of the town accompanied by a shattered musical band and stops in front of the most prominent houses and shops, which offer food and wine.

At midday the traditional “consulu” takes place, a free public banquet in Piazza della Repubblica, based on tripe, potatoes and wine, in honor of the inconsolable widow Nina Sconza and all those who participate in Paulinu’s mourning. The evening ends with the burning of the puppet and the placing of the “Quaremma”, symbol of the beginning of the period of penitence.

 

Caremma: The Symbol of Lent

Caremma is one of the most symbolic and fascinating characters of the Salento Carnival, embodying a deep bond with the religious and popular traditions of the region. This figure, an old woman dressed in black with a spindle in her hand, represents Lent, that period of fasting and penance that follows Carnival, marking the transition from the exuberance of the festivities to the sobriety of the 40 days of preparation for Easter.

Her appearance is deliberately austere and severe, to reflect the meaning of sacrifice and renunciation that Lent brings with it. Caremma is not only a figure of transition, but also a symbol of an ancient ritual, which marks the end of a cycle of abundance and freedom, to give space to a time of reflection and austerity. In the popular tradition of Salento, Caremma also served as a “living calendar” for the Lenten period. With a spindle in her hand, she tore out a feather or part of a symbol every week that passed, a gesture that marked time and reminded those who observed her of the path of purification and waiting that they were about to face. Each week of deprivation was “archived” in this way, giving Caremma an almost educational function, which taught patience and discipline.

The figure of Caremma, therefore, is more than a simple carnival mask: it embodies a balance between the profane and the sacred, between celebration and a moment of reflection, a symbol of the duality that runs through the Salento Carnival, where fun and joy give way to the serenity of fasting and penance, marking an essential passage towards Easter. Her presence in carnival celebrations becomes a reminder of how, even in moments of celebration, there is a cycle to be respected, a tradition to be honored, which carries with it a profound meaning and great symbolic value for the community.

 

The Traditions and Rites of the Salento Carnival

In addition to the masks, the Salento Carnival is characterized by rites and customs that reflect the cultural identity of the territory:

  • The Allegorical Floats: Cities such as Gallipoli, Galatina and Corsano host parades of handcrafted floats, often with satirical figures inspired by current events.
  • The Carnival Serenades: In some towns, the Carnival is accompanied by popular songs and traditional dances, in particular the pizzica.
  • The Burning of the Fantoccio: In many places in Salento, the Carnival ends with the burning of a straw puppet, which symbolizes the farewell to the festival and the entrance into Lent.

 

The Link between the Carnival and the Architecture of Salento

The architecture of Salento is closely connected to the carnival spirit, especially in the baroque cities such as Lecce and Nardò. The Baroque of Lecce, with its elaborate decorations, the scenographic excesses and the theatricality of its facades, reflects the exuberant spirit of Carnival, in which everything becomes a spectacle and a staging.

The historic squares, the heart of community life, are transformed into open-air stages during Carnival, where masks, actors and spectators mingle in a collective game of celebration and reflection.

The masserie of Salento, once the centers of rural life, have hosted more intimate celebrations and rituals linked to agricultural cycles for centuries, making Carnival a moment of transition between winter and spring.

 

Conclusion

Carnival in Salento is not just a celebration, but a collective ritual that tells the story, culture and transformations of the territory. Through figures such as Caremma, Paolinu and Purgianella, this tradition continues to live, intertwining satire, spirituality and fun. If you want to immerse yourself in the authentic atmosphere of Salento, Carnival is the perfect time to discover its masks, its customs and the charm of its timeless architecture.